I suggest you come in the morning, any day of the week, but on Mondays, in order to enjoy the quaint Market Beauvau more commonly called Market Aligre where you will also find a compact flea market.
The origin of the flea market comes from a privilege granted by the Abbess, Madam de Beauvau Craon to the clothes sellers so that the poor from
the neighborhood could buy clothes at low price.
Baudelaire's shadow was floating in our walk in Ile Saint-Louis and is with us again in a close street named after him.
Paris may change; my melancholy is fixed.
New palaces, and scaffoldings, and blocks,
And suburbs old, are symbols all to me
Whose memories are as heavy as a stone.
The Swan – Parisian scenes – The flowers of Evil (1859) Baudelaire
faubourg had been knowing many popular revolts, starting with Bastille Day. Haussmann will remember them when he will
divide the district into two arrondissements for a stronger control. Many
barricades were built in this district with narrow streets and many passages where to take cover.
There are very few traces of this past, but with a closer look you can notice some remnants of the rebellious spirit like the associative café of
the Aligre free community located
at 3, place d'Aligre.
This is an other cafe selected by Atget for its old wrought iron sign board. And this is
an other time, all gone. The pretty bunch of grapes within the door frame and the gates are gone, only the name of the café – la grille (the gate) sounds like a pale ghost.
Let's come back rue d'Aligre, then rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine and on the left rue de la Forge Royale. Let's continue rue Saint-Bernard up to the church Sainte-Marguerite.